Night Hunting

“C’mon brother, let’s go!” Tshetem’s older brother used to urge him out into the night, needing a companion for the long walk to a home far enough away that it was unlikely to house a cousin or a valued neighbor. Once there,...

Takin, Tsa-Tsa’s, and Trashichhoe

Drukpa Kunley was Bhutan’s famous Divine Madman. He would do outrageous things, including drinking and womanizing, to help shake people out of their illusory existence. Once, villagers wanted him to perform a miracle for them and prove that he was indeed a holy...

Bhutan Beginning…

The aspens have turned golden and were glowing in the afternoon sun when our plane landed in Bhutan. The Paro valley airport requires sharp turns just before landing, and we skidded sideways a bit as we touched down. Unnerving. After that, however, everything was...

Modern and Archaic in Kathmandu

Life in Nepal is an amalgamated existence–the modern alongside the archaic. It can range from startling to confusing to frustrating: ATM’s and WiFi offer convenience…but only when they’re working. Hotels with marble floors dump their garbage on the street. The...